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June 29, 2012

The Wet Spot Tropical Fish knows that if you want a business to thrive you must instruct your regular and potential customers the right and wrong ways to keep a tropical aquarium. Unfortunately, there are fish sold in the hobby as “beginner” fish. These fish are often sold to their new owners without ever informing them about how large they get, what they really eat, or even how old they could potentially last if given the proper care. I will admit I was one of these “victims” as a child, and I’m sure there are many of us out there who can say the same thing. Therefore, this week I wanted to take a moment and point out a few species that are often sold to the wrong environments.

Epalzeorhynchos frenatus

Though they are thought to be almost extinct in nature, Epalzeorhynchos frenatus “Rainbow Shark” and E. bicolor “Red Tail Shark” are still exported from Thailand by the tens of thousands thanks to commercial farm breeding. Overfishing for the aquarium trade was thought to be the reason for their decline in numbers, but it’s more likely that building of dams on major rivers and draining of swamps is more than likely the cause.

Epalzeorhynchos frenatus

Rainbow and Red Tail Sharks are often sold or bought as “algae” eaters. Yes, they may graze at algae, but they also require a diet of frozen bloodworms, daphnia, and flake food to keep them in good health. The Rainbow Shark is considered a little better of a community tank-mate than the Red Tail Shark, but you should still carefully consider what you are going to keep them with. Both sharks do not like one another. If you are planning to keep them, you should either have them by themselves or in numbers of three or more. Both sharks grow to around 5-6”, and if you are planning on keeping one, or a group, you will need a tank that measures at least 48x12x18 (standard 55 gallon tanks). Both species can also live over 15 years. This is certainly something to consider when making your purchase.

Epalzeorhynchos bicolor

Sadly, another well-known aquarium pet is vanishing or even extinct in some areas, Balantiocheilos melanopterus “Bala Shark” has been declining in numbers in Borneo and Sumatra since 1975. Unfortunately, for reasons still unclear, but overfishing and pollution are certainly views to be considered.


The Bala Shark, also known as the “Tricolor Shark”, is one of the most common fish in the trade, but often is sold without proper care information given to its new owner. Bala Sharks can grow to over 14” in length, and despite its robust size, are actually a schooling species that ideally should be kept in groups of five or more. These schools form a pecking order that levels out any aggression that few numbers may exhibit. The Bala Shark should only be kept in aquaria larger than 72x18x24 (standard 125 gallon tanks). Though the Bala Shark is generally peaceful, if it can it will eat smaller fishes, so be warned not to keep them with your Leopard Danios (Danio frankei). Much like the Rainbow Sharks, a varied diet of frozen bloodworms, flake foods, and pellets are required to keep the fish in proper health.

It’s been our goal since day one to educate and inform our customers what they are going to be buying. Tropical fish are a pet just like a dog or cat, and can live for many years if given the proper treatment. An aquarium should not be treated as a decoration, but rather as a responsibility like any other animal that is taken into your care. I am aware that many pet stores unfortunately do not share the same beliefs as we do, but we hope we can all come together to make the hobby stronger, and more informed.

The Fourth of July also falls in the middle of the week. Due to the holiday we will not be shipping on Tuesday the 3rd and Wednesday July 4th. There will be no USPS priority shipments this week.

Next week, will be my last newsletter for a couple of weeks as I will be attending the 2012 American Cichlid Association and after that I will be on my vacation. My employee, Jess Supalla, will be taking your orders, and writing you all something while I am away. She will be taking care of you just as well as I have. If any of you have any questions please contact me via phone or email. Thanks again for all of your support, and I hope to see many of you Indianapolis!

Anthony Perry
Sales Manager

June 22, 2012

Like many families, the genus Rasbora became a catch-all for the Cyprinids of Asia. During the 90’s a few scientists took it upon themselves to start classifying each species in order to accurately tell what fish was closely related to one another. In 1999, Kottelat and Witte began researching the small group Rasbora heteromorpha. The researchers would place four different fish into the new genus Trigonostigma. This was based not only how similar the fishes were in color, but on how uniquely the fishes spawned. The genus was erected from the Greek words trigonon, meaning hatchet or triangle. While the other word, stigma, means spot or brand. Clearly this derives from the large black stripe found on the four fish.

As I just mentioned, these fish have a very unique way of breeding. Unlike most Cyprinids, the females of these fish lay their eggs onto leaves of plants (usually on the underside) as opposed to scattering them across mosses or the substrate. If you wish to breed them, the best way is to use fish of a year or older. Feeding live foods 2-3 times a day before the attempt is a great idea. Once the female appears egg bound, and the male is in full color, you should change about 50% of the aquarium water and replace it with cooler water.

Wait a few hours (evening is preferred) then move the pair into the spawning tank. According to the spawning takes place in the early hours of the morning. The pair can be seen doing ‘dry runs’ over the spawning area. It may take a while, but eventually the female will begin to produce eggs. Once the fish are done, the parents should be moved back into the main tank. After 24-48 hours, the fry will hatch out and should be fed Artemia nauplii.

Though these fish do not need a very large sized tank, one measuring at least 24 inches long and 12 inches wide is ideal. They are all schooling fish and should be kept in larger numbers in order for them to thrive. The best tank for them would be a well-planted aquarium with a slow current. I would recommend a dark substrate and possibly some oak leaves on the bottom. The rest of the plants are up to you!

Trigonostigma heteromorpha “Harlequin Rasbora” is by far one of the most recognizable aquarium pets in any shop. After all, it’s been in the hobby since the early 1900’s. With its red hue, bluish tint, and sideways black “triangle” it quickly became one of the most successful pets in the trade. So why was this? Well, the fish is very adaptable to water conditions. It will thrive in a pH from the low 5’s all the way up to 7.5 or so. Harlequin Rasboras also won’t mind temperatures in the low 70’s or even the low 80’s. There are even a few different color morphs available in the trade now from selective breeding. I’m sure that most of you have at least seen the fish, if not kept it before. Or maybe, you even still have a group of them. With a max size of around 2”, and being a peaceful fish it certainly makes a great community tank member.

Trigonostigma heteromorpha

Trigonostigma heteromorpha "Purple"

In 1967, Meinken described a sub-species out of Thailand that would become known as Rasbora heteromorpha espei. In 1987, Rainboth and Kottelat evaluated the fish and declared them to be a distinct species. Years later it would be placed into what we now know it as, Trigonostigma espei “Porkchop Rasbora”.

Trigonostigma espei

This is, in my opinion, by far the most attractive of the genus, demonstrating a very beautiful red or orange coloration, a thinner “porkchop” style stripe on the side, and a slightly smaller size – reaching about 1.6” on average. One thing that I really thought was interesting about this species is some of the habitats it can be found in. In southern Thailand, it can be found living in limestone sinkholes that are an amazing blue/green color. The pH is often more alkaline around 7.0-7.4. There is often leaf litter piled up on the sides, yet the water remains very clear.

Maybe I’m just spoiled at my job, but to read that my favorite species of the group is rarely imported seems a bit of a far stretch. We often import in Trigonostigma hengeli “Narrow Wedge Rasbora” direct from the waters of the Sunda Islands. I’m sure you’re asking yourself why I love this fish out of the other two. I know it’s not as red as T. espei, or well known as T. heteromorpha, but I guess I just like the subtle beauty the fish offers. It’s also the smallest member of the family. Most Narrow Wedge Rasboras only grow to around 1.2”. I’m sure it probably gets a little bigger in an aquarium, though. Again, it was Meinken who would describe the species back in 1956, and Kottelat and Witte would later change their genus to Trigonostigma.

Trigonostigma hengeli

Sadly the fourth fish, Trigonostigma somphongsi, is exceptionally rare in the hobby. Like many of you know we thrive in the unusual and are doing our best to come up with a batch. Keep your fingers crossed!

Until next week!

Anthony Perry
Sales Manager

May 24, 2012

When it comes to cichlids, there is no other name that gets hobbyists of any kind more excited to hear than ExCichlasoma festae or better known as the “Red Terror”. It is often confused with being a Central American cichlid, but the fish actually occurs from the Rio Esmeraldes in Ecuador and the Rio Tumbes in Peru, making it a South American fish. I’m not sure where this confusion came from, but this is clearly not a Central American cichlid. Even more confusing to me is the name festae, which translates from Latin into festive, joyous, or merry. Yet it bears the common name “Red Terror”, and for good reason…

In fact, ExCichlasoma festae is more closely related to ExCichlasoma ornatum, another large cichlid which comes from Colombia. The main difference between these two fish, outside of coloration, is the caudal peduncle fin is longer in adult E. festae. The jaw structure is also a little different in E. ornatum versus E. festae, so they may not end up in the same genus once assigned to an actual class. It seems that E. festae are also taller bodied than E. ornatum.

exCichlasoma festae Pair

Often E. festae are sold to pet stores and owners under the wrong conditions, because many do not know enough about the fish to know that males of E. festae can reach a maximum size of 20” in just a couple of years; while females usually grow to be about 12”. This incredibly large size can be hard to house for most hobbyists for obvious reasons. This mixed with its extreme temperament, make for one difficult fish to keep in an aquarium, and I do not recommend it for the beginning hobbyist.

The habitat of E. festae ranges greatly from fast flowing streams to nearly stagnant river systems. There also appears to be different populations existing that range in color from various reds to yellow bodies. There even appears to be a difference in the color of the stripe on the body. Some populations exhibit a black stripe while others appear to have a bluish colored one. Unfortunately, many distributors do not give out the locations of where the population was collected, and because of this, it is extremely difficult to know what they will look like when they grow up.

exCichlasoma festae Female

E. festae are very adaptable fish that can survive in many conditions and pH ranges. I would recommend a tank no less than 75 gallons while raising them, but even a larger aquarium would be ideal so you do not have to relocate them when they outgrow their home; a tank of 125 gallons would be perfect. For the substrate, I would recommend small pebbles or sand as it is more likely that E. festae will dig a cave to spawn in. I would recommend securing any pieces of rock or wood placed in the aquarium with silicone to ensure no harm comes to the fish or to the aquarium. I would keep the temperature around 77-84° and would keep the pH in the neutral range.

If you wish to breed these exceptionally colored Ecuadoran and Peruvian cichlids then I would advise growing up a small group of around six fish to ensure a solid pair will form. Once this happens, it is strongly advised to remove the other fish, as aggression is sure to start. Even a mated pair that has been together for a long time can suddenly become detached from one another. This usually ends up in the smaller female’s demise.

exCichalsoma festae Juvenile

You can find both wild caught and tank-raised ExCichlasoma festae “Red Terror” on our list this week. So be sure to click the products link below, or visit our website,, if you think you got what it takes to house a “monster fish”. If you have any further questions about keeping the “Red Terror” or any of the other fish from our list please be sure to send me an email or call me. Like always, I’ll see you back here next week. Thanks again for reading!

Anthony Perry
Sales Manager

June 15, 2012

The craze among hobbyists today is the Nano aquarium. They are perfectly sized for the desk in the office or that extra bit of space on the kitchen counter. There are many misconceptions that smaller aquariums are harder to work with. So, this week I thought I’d help not only set up a Nano tank, but provide some pointers on how to succeed at Nano fish keeping.

To start, it’s a good idea to establish how small you’d like to go, and do you want a tank with a lid or one with an open top? This will not only be determined by the amount of room you have to work with in the space you choose and the amount of time and energy you wish to put into the tank, but also by the fish you may want to keep in the tank. The benefits of having a tank with an open lid are that you can have the wood, rocks, and plants growing out of the top. The downsides are more water will evaporate, it will require more energy to heat compared to that of one with a lid and you may get a few suicidal fish.

There are literally hundreds of aquarium fish in the trade, but that does not mean a small tank would be good for all of them. For instance “Red Arc/Coral Red Pencil” (Nannostomus mortenthaleri) may only grow to around 1.5”, but its big attitude certainly calls for a tank of at least 20 gallons in capacity.

Nannostomus mortenthaleri

In the front of our store, you will find many of these beautifully planted aquaria that draws the eyes of our customers. Some of them have been so impressed by our employees’ water gardening skills they buy the tank out right! So what does it take to set up and properly maintain one of these?

Let’s begin. Most of us here at the store like the Amazonia substrate from ADA and will lay down a small layer of it. There are a lot of micro fish that look great under the darker substrates, so we’ll usually top the remainder off with Tahitian Moon Sand. From there, we’ll place the decorations we have carefully picked out which usually include Amano branch woods and lace rocks. The next step is to place the plants in the tank. Now that’s where it gets a bit tricky. Planting in tight places with your hands can prove to be difficult. Using specially designed plant tweezers makes the job a breeze, and when it comes time to do some pruning it will be a snap. There are several different lighting options available in the market. You should choose one based on what you want to accomplish from the aquaria.

You really want to make sure the tank cycles before adding fish. The Amazonia substrate also puts off a lot of ammonia. To compensate for this we usually do large water changes before adding fish. It’s also a very good idea to add beneficial bacteria. Smaller animals are very sensitive to high levels of ammonia and nitrites. If you add them too soon you could end up losing fish. I would suggest starting off with hardier fish like “White Cloud Mountain Minnows” (Tanichthys albonubes) before rushing out to get those “Red Fin Dwarf Rasboras” (Boraras brigittae). If you wish to add shrimp to the tank, I would suggest waiting until the tank is 100% cycled. It’s well known that it’s easier to maintain good water chemistry in larger aquaria. In smaller aquaria, you can achieve this by planting correctly, not over stocking with large fish, and by having proper filtration. Which brings me to the next question - what kind of filter should you use?

Tanichthys albonubes "Long Fin"

Well, there are internal filters designed for Nano-tanks but they may not be the best choice. For one, they take up space inside the aquarium where space is already limited. In addition, the filter media is often small and needs to be cleaned more frequently. All of us here at the shop prefer an external filter such as a small canister designed just for the Nano tank. Whatever filter you choose be sure to place mesh netting over the intake tube so that your little ones don’t get sucked in!

Boraras brigittae

After the tank is going, what’s next? Now it’s time figure out how often you should change the water. Most literature tells you to change about 25-30% of water weekly. I’m not sure if I agree with this completely. In my experience, doing too much to a tank cannot only cause problems with the tank, but may cause too much stress on the fish. We prefer to change 25% about every 10-14 days or so. It’s also important not to mess around too often with the filter. That is, after all, where the beneficial bacteria keep the aquarium going. I would recommend small amounts of food about once or maybe twice a day. Again, it just depends on what kind of fish you are housing. During the feeding you should be observing the health of your fish, as well. If the fish do not come rushing for the food or are not acting normal it may be time to test the water, most of this only a real concern for the first month or so.

If you are planning on setting up a nano-tank, I hope this gives you a better understanding of what to do. If you are having some issues with your current nano-tank then maybe this will help troubleshoot any problems you may have been having. I hope you enjoy some of the pictures I took of our displays. I would also like to give credit to the authors of Back to Nature Guide to Nano Aquarium for their insight and the information they provided. If you haven’t purchased their book yet I strongly urge you to do so and add it to your library!

Until next week!

Anthony Perry
Sales Manager

May 17, 2012

I remember when I first laid eyes on a brightly colored Sundadanio axelrodi “Neon Rasbora”. The fish had such amazing colors for being such a petite animal. Males were glowing, even in the dimly lit tank. I was struck by their natural beauty. From that moment, I knew I had to keep some in my 5 gallon Nano tank I had just set up for another Borneo fish. My intentions were to breed the other little Cyprinid, but once I saw these I decided to scratch that idea and set up a biotope instead.

There are currently three color morphs of the Neon Rasbora, depending on their location. The fishes from the southern and eastern state of Sarawak (Borneo) are a blue to green color, but as you move further west to West Kalimantan they are a red to orange form. The fish were first described by Brittan in 1976 and placed in the genus Rasbora. In 1999, it was moved to the genus Sundadanio and is the only fish in this genus. Studies have shown close relations to both family Cyprininae (Barbs) and the Danio family Danioninae. It may appear that the Neon Rasbora may in fact be more closely related to Danios than Rasboras.

Though they are indeed a peaceful schooling fish, the Neon Rasbora may not be the perfect choice for a community tank. Their small size of just over ¾” and their timid behavior may make them prone to larger fish picking on them. I would suggest an aquarium set up just for them and with fish of similar size and needs.

Sundadanio axelrodi "Blue"

I would purchase a Mr. Aqua 7 ½ gallon bow-front seamless aquarium that The Wet Spot Tropical Fish offers. From there, I would lay down some ADA Amazonia substrate. It would be a good idea to mix in a little bit of dark sand for any remaining food that makes its way to the bottom. Next, I would place a piece of branch wood from ADA to build around. Once you find the perfect place for the wood you can attach some moss on it in order to create a nice filler. In the corners and for the background, I would plant various species of Cyrptocorynes. Once everything is in place, go ahead and slowly fill the aquarium with water. Since you spent all this time decorating, I would pour the water from a pitcher over your hand to try and keep from disturbing the plants. Once the tank is filled, I would hook up a ZooMed Nano 501 to filter your now beautiful Nano tank.

All Neon Rasboras being imported into the states are wild caught. I would suggest trying to replicate their natural environment as much as possible. They are more likely to show off their best coloration under a dimly lit tank. The areas from which they come from can have a pH as low as 4.0. But I do not feel it is needed to be that low to keep them active and healthy. I had great luck keeping mine in the low 6.0’s and with a temperature in the mid 70’s. It may be a good idea to throw in some almond leaves (or peat moss in the filter) at the bottom to release some tannins into the water. In nature, they are more than likely feeding on insect larvae and zooplankton and can be a little problematic at first to eat in an aquarium. I have found they will accept frozen baby brine shrimp or Daphnia fairly easily once they recognize it as a food source. I’m sure that no matter what color morph you lay eyes upon that you will fall in love, as much as I have, with the sweetest “Rasbora”, the Sundadanio axelrodi “Neon Rasbora”!

See you all next week!

Anthony Perry
Sales Manager

May 30, 2012

My obsession with Geophagus cichlids continues to grow each and every day I clock in for work. I’ve spent several hours searching the web in pursuit of more information, and even read the entirety of Thomas Weidner’s “South American Eearthearters” book front to back. If I don’t know the answer, or have questions on a new arrivals identity, I’m immediately emailing a couple of honorable gentlemen who may know the answer. Needless to say, I like to think myself well educated enough about the family, so when we received my next featured fish, I was more than positive when I laid eyes upon them what they were…

I quickly snapped a photo and sent it to my friend Wayne Leibel. The 1.5” fish had just arrived, so there was a little bit of stress showing, and the camera flash did take away some of the coloring. He explained to me the same distinguishing characteristics I remembered from the first time I had seen the fish -the black stripe through the eye, the yellow body and a single black spot in the middle. All of it seems to match up except for the collection locale. According to Leibel and Weidner, Geophagus taeniopareius comes from the upper Río Orinoco in Venezuela. However, this batch was supposedly sent from Colombia to our importer. The time before we had received G. taeniopareius it was also from Colombia.

Geophagus taenioparius

My theory, and I could be completely wrong on this, is that the range of these fish is larger than expected. According to and Ingo Seidel’s “Back to Nature L-Catfishes” both Hemiancistrus subviridis “L200” and Hemiancistrus sp. “L128” occur in the upper Río Orinoco in Venezuela. But again, we receive these fish from Colombia on a regular basis. Or, perhaps, Colombian collectors are crossing over into Venezuelan waters for some fish before returning to the big city?

G. taeniopareius is one of the five species within the Geophagine family that are not included in the G. surinamensis ‘group’. The only member that closely resembles this fish, according to, is Geophagus gottwaldi. The main differences between G. gottwaldi and G. taeniopareius is that G. taeniopareius has a smaller spot in the middle of the body, has fewer dorsal fin spines, and the tail spots are blue as opposed to large, light spots as seen in G. gottwaldi. All of these characteristics match with the fish we currently have.

I will be setting up a 75-gallon aquarium to house a small group of around eight or so of them. My intention is to breed these wonderfully and rarely seen eartheaters. I’ll be using a sand substrate with a few pieces of driftwood. I’ll be placing a couple of slate rocks across the bottom for them to use as a spawning ground. For now, I’ll keep the pH around 6.5, but when the fish become large enough (about 4”) I’ll begin to lower the pH to around 5.5. Ideally, the temperature should be around 78-84° year around. With any luck, I’ll be watching the courtship happen in the bedroom, which I’ve heard is a site to behold. Weidner states: “The courtship behavior of G. taeniopareius is particularly noteworthy. The male flutters around the female like a butterfly. He positions himself in front of the female, head down and fins spread, and quivers, before darting up to 30 cm away, swimming in a semi-circle around the female, and then displaying in front of her again”. How fascinating!

The spawning can occur for up to 90 minutes and contains up to 150 eggs. Once all of the eggs are laid she will spit sand over them to “camouflage” them from potential predators. The female then stays close behind fanning fresh water over the brood to keep them becoming infected. The male will stick close to his “gal” and defend any other fish that comes to close to their nest. Depending on water temperature, the eggs will hatch out about 70-80 hours later. The female will then take the eggs into her mouth and continue to guard them until they are large enough to live on their own, which can take several months.

G. taeniopareius is one of the smallest members of the Geophagus family and only reaches a maximum of six inches. They are difficult to sex. The female seems to have shorter fins and stays a little smaller as an adult. Despite this small size, it is very agile and can handle larger cichlids if needing to protect itself. You will notice daily quarrels with one another, but this rarely leads to serious battles or injuries. Like all of the Geophagus, I would recommend a varied diet of frozen foods, pellets, and fresh vegetables like zucchini and squash to keep their health and color.

Perhaps you were considering the great journey to collect Geophagus taeniopareius yourself, but just didn’t have the funding. Well, we’ve made it easy for you by bringing them in and delivering them right to your front door. I know you may miss out on the excitement of trenching through the humid Venezuelan jungles, but it sure saves on the ole penny bank!

Until next week!

Anthony Perry
Sales Manager

May 07, 2012

After much delay, I would like to say thank you all once again for the support you’ve shown to the store. I would like to apologize for the “pause” between newsletters. We were going through a transition on our email server that ended up not being the easiest transition. But, everything is back to normal and I’m ready to sit down and write. So enough about that, let’s get to the fish!

This week, I would like to take you on a journey through the flooded forest streams that make up the Malayan waters throughout Malaysia, Sumatra, and Borneo. This week is a little different from my “normal” mentioning of the Cyprinids that call this area home. It would surprise me a great deal if some of you have never heard of the infamous Pangio semicincta “Kuhlii Loach”. These “worm-like” animals have been finding their way into our hearts since 1846 as P. kuhlii. But, in reality, it has been P. semicincta that you have been getting since P. kuhlii comes from Java where there are few, if any, importers collecting. The Kuhlii Loach grows to around 4” and can live a long life in your aquarium if cared for properly. Here are some tips to making sure they thrive in your home!

Pangio semicincta

So what does one need when planning to include these amazingly nimble animals into their aquaria? It’s true that Kuhlii Loaches are notorious for finding their way into the smallest of crevices. You will find these creatures making their way into your decorations, filters, and bubblers. They are also nocturnal animals that spend much of their time hidden away in such areas. I would recommend avoiding undergravel filters. Not only will the rough substrate be a little harsh on their soft underside, but it will also prevent them from getting into the gravel plate below. I would suggest mildly warmer water (78-82°F) and a pH value in the 6-7.2 range. Kuhlii Loaches accept a variety of foods such as frozen bloodworms to high quality flakes. Now we all know how shy these animals are so keeping them in larger groups will certainly make the animals feel more comfortable and likely to come out and be seen.

There are around 25 known species within the genus Pangio, and 16 of these call Malaysian Islands home. A few of the others can be found within India and Mynamar. Among all of these you will find Pangio oblonga “Black Kuhlii Loach” shifting through the vegetation in search of insect larvae and small crustaceans. Within these black waters the pH is only 3.0! This is one of the smaller members of the genus that grow to just over 3”. The original collection point was Bogor, West Java, but after some extensive research it seems the Black Kuhlii Loach has a wider distribution, which includes Java, Sumatra, Borneo, and Malaysia. Another source suggests they have a much broader range that includes Vietnam, Laos, and have been reported as far as India. Wherever this fish hails from they are certainly an awesome fish that would make a great addition to your tank!


The Wet Spot is certainly known for bringing in oddball items we can get our hands on. Last week, we found another Kuhlii Loach that we couldn’t pass up. Pangio anguillaris “Silver Kuhlii Loach” is found in the Kapuas river basin in western Borneo and appears to inhabit the Mekong Basin in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. Due to irregular populations, Tan and Kottelat, hypothesize that these may be recognized as sub-species of one another with further study of the species. The Silver Kuhlii Loach appears to be one of the largest by attaining almost 5” in length. If you love the common Kuhlii Loach, but want something a little outside the norm, then these are the fish for you!

Pangio anguillaris 

The Silver Kuhlii Loach sums up another newsletter, and one more week of amazing fishes. It seems summer is finally hitting us here in Portland. With the weather warming we’ll see more and more people getting out and enjoying the sun, which means less time for your aquarium. I know it’s going to be difficult, but don’t forget about scrubbing that algae of the tank and keeping up on that maintenance. I’ll see you back here next week!

Anthony Perry
Sales Manager